The geography of Lisbon can be confusing if you haven't been there. It's also a very hilly city, and maps can be deceptive when they show two parallel streets (when one is thirty metres above the other).
The map of Lisbon here is quite handy for orienting yourself, and you can search for streets as well.
When you open the page, the map will show what might be considered to be the "centre" of Lisbon....
Directly below the red marker is the Baixa, stretching from the Rossio (Praça Dom Pedro IV) down to the riverbank of the Tejo (at the Praça do Comércio. The Baixa is the area of town which was rebuilt first after the earthquake of 1755, which destroyed that area almost entirely. As the result of a massive reconstruction project, headed by the Marquês de Pombal, it has an elegance and regularity of architectural style that most other areas of Lisbon don't have. The Rossio is packed with shops of all kinds, and during the day it's packed with shoppers as well. It's great fun, and a great place to find clothes and souveniers, although the restaurants tend toward the tourist trap. Heading towards the river the buildings get a little shabbier in places, and the shops older and odder, but it has a great, slightly run down charm. There are some wonderful shops here as well - for wine, try Manuel Tavares at Rua de Betesga 1a, where you can taste almost any bottle before you buy.
Highlights are the two squares at either end, with their equestrian statues and (in particular) the triumphal Arco da Victória facing the river. The Baixa is really for wandering, shopping and people watching.
To the left of that moving towards the top of the map up a steep hill away from the river are the Chiado and the Bairro Alto - the Chiado is a shopping/residential area. It's very smart, and very chic, and full of Lisbon charm. The shops here range from the big chain stores to little boutiques, with a liberal sprinkling of book stores and others. You can wander up the gently sloping Rua Garrett, stopping for a coffee on the way. Alternatively, take the Elevador de Santa Justa from the Baixa up to the Rua Do Carmo. The views from the top of the Elevador are some of the best in the city, and you can also visit the Carmo Museum (which is just next door). One of the best museums in the city, it is housed in the ruins of a convent (also destroyed in the earthquake). Unrestored, roofless, and with roman and renaissance statuary scattered around its walls, it is a strangely charming place. There is an enclosed space at the back with a tiny but very interesting collection (including three mummies). There are some wonderful cafes and restaurants in the Chiado, generally full of people watching the passing parade.
Coming out the the Chiado, up the hill still further, you reach the Bairro Alto.
[to be continued]
