When Singapore's founder Stamford Raffles set aside land for Chinatown, he dictated that the buildings should be made of permanent material. Thanks to Raffles and some conservation effort, Chinatown today remains a place to admire early-Singapore shophouse architecture.

Many of the original trades here, however, have been replaced by more upmarket activities like Chinese restaurants and tea houses. And as well. Opium dens, brothels and death houses (where the dying were condemned to) used to take up many of the shophouses here. Today, you'll only see pictures and mock-ups of these trades in the Chinatown Heritage Center.

Nevertheless, Chinatown retains a strong sense of 'Chinese-ness'.

Chinatown's restaurants used to serve only local and southern Chinese food. Today, however, you'll find many restaurants offering cuisines from other parts of China. These are run by first-generation immigrants who have come from various provinces in China. Singapore's oldest Chinese temple - the very elaborate Thian Hock Keng Temple - is also found here. Worth a visit also are the quaint shops specializing in Chinese calligraphy, antiques and traditional costumes.

Chinatown is an enchanting place to visit during the 2 weeks leading up to Chinese New Year. The streets are alive with road-side stalls. There are also street performances by acrobats and lion dance troupes. It is a nice place to soak up the festive atmosphere.